Catching Breath

So You Want to Go to Peru

The most useful guidebook for us was the Brandt Trekking Guide to Peru and Bolivia. But we also liked the Footprint Guide to Cusco and the Inca Heartland.

A useful pre-trip planning website was Andean Travel Web.

An excellent resource in Cusco was the South American Explorers office. 

One highlight of our trip was a trek through the Lares Valley, from Urubumba to Lares. The Brandt Guide gives an excellent description. The South American Explorers office in Cusco has trip descriptions from people (including us!) that have done the trek, some of which are quite detailed. They also have maps.

We set up our homestay in Chinchero through Peru Treks and Adventures. We made arrangements early in the week for a weekend stay.

Hostal Amaru in Cusco was a great basecamp. We were able to store our luggage while out of town and they make a CD with our photos when photo card got too full!

Our time in the jungle was spent at Posadas Amazonas, managed by Rainforest Expeditions. The lodge was beautiful and our guide was native to the region and very knowledgable - he also spoke excellent English.

Of course, Machu Picchu was amazing. We spent minimal time in Aguas Calientes, at the Rupa Wasi, which was nice, but nothing special. Be sure to catch the first bus from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu. By noon, the ruins were packed, but they were fairly quiet in the early morning.

Ending

Biding time until our flight to Miami this evening: J is playing with the Hostle's dog, Kalua, and I thought I would try to catch up a bit.

Our visit to Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes was wonderful. Much more than I ever imagined. We arrived at the town of Aguas Clientes Tuesday afternoon and were greeted with rain and clouds. Giving in to a bit of laziness, we spend the day eating and napping. Wednesday, we woke in time to catch a 5:30am bus to Machu Picchu, which was quite socked in upon arrival. However, as the sun rose, the clouds broke and we had a beautiful day to explore the ruins.

Mid-day we climbed up many steps to the top of Waiyna Picchu, the mountain that stands behind Machu Picchu in most classic shots. At the top, we were awarded a spectaular view of the entire sight.

We spent Thursday, our last day in Cusco, wondering the streets and sitting in a Cafe. Yesterday, we flew here, to Lima, and have been enjoying the sunny weather and ocean breeze. Now we are mearly passing time until our taxi arrives to bring us to the airport. Ready to head home.

Arriving

As J and I prepare for our final day in Cusco, we realize how soon we will be home. We are wondering if anyone may be available (and willing!) to pick us up at the Seattle airport on Sunday? Our plane is scheduled to arrive around 11:30a.

Machu Picchu pictures are up on Flickr - posted here soon.

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Rubber Boots

Muddy trails, humid air, and amazing sights. Our three days in the rainforest were unlike any other of our trip. Following a short flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado we were transported by bus and then motorized canoe into the jungle region of the Tambopata river. The lodge, Posadas Amazonas, was beautiful - thatched roofs, karosene lamps, and only three walls in the bedroom - the fourth side was open to the forest. We were so fortunate to have a guide, Rodolfo, who was born in the region and has been with the lodge since its beginnings ten years ago.

For each species we encountered I could picture its location in the Minnesota Zoo. Quite amazing to see these animals in the wild! From a canopy tower we watched three mackaws land in a tree twenty yards away. Various walks through the woods lead to encouters with leaf-cutter ants, a jaguar footprint, and monkeys. On a float around an oxbow lake we saw the endagered giant otter, the largest of the otters.

The weekend was filled with wonderful wildlife, and also plenty of time to relax.

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Arriba!

A guide at Q'uenqa told us that the Incans used to sacrifice humans on the tops of sacred mountains.  Bess and I should have taken that as a hint.  On our first day of hiking out of Urubamba, we took a taxi to the start of the trail.  As the driver was dropping us off, he said, "There aren't many houses after this.  Are you sure you want to do this?  There are people who will steal from you and hurt you."  That should have been our second hint that we may be biting more than we bargained for.  Our true midwestern stubborness showed up as we neglected our third hint.  As locals would pass us on the trail, we would ask them directions to our next destination and they would say nothing more than "Arriba" or up.

Along the way we ran into some very friendly people dressed in their traditional outfits, eager to chat with us.  Quite opposite of the taxi driver's warnings.  We followed the River up to our first campsite near the town of Paschasbata.  We pitched our tent underneath an abandoned cabana in the middle of some Incan ruins. REI could use these photos as a promo shot.  We thought we were in the middle of nowhere until we had a series of visitors (small children) come check us out.  When asked where they lived, they would say, "arriba".
 
As with many of nature's elements, the Incans worshiped thunder and lightning, something we experienced that night.  The thunder was extraordinary as it rumbled through the valley.  When we woke up, we could see snow not to far above our elevation (12,000 ft.). 

Determined, we set out to get to Cucanni, over the abra (pass).  This brought us past many beautiful waterfalls, green pastures and lots of snow.

The pass was no easy battle.  At about 14,000 feet, I started showing signs of Acute Mountain Sickness.  Friends reading this must be saying "you should be used to this" as it is similar to an extremely bad hangover, but much worse.  Bess fared much better with the altitude, pushing us slowly but surely over the pass standing at 4970 meters or just over 16,200 feet. That may be higher than we will ever be again.  I hope not though. If it weren't for the two locals (in sandals) leading the way through the snow, I'm not sure we would have found our way to the pass.  In a fight between a sherpa or Andean, I wouldn't know who to put my money on. 

As we descended back down the abra, the clouds lifted, the rain stopped and we were spared with some amazing views of glaciated peaks, alpine lakes and green pastures separated by ancient Incan stone fences still used today. 

We set up camp in the pasture of a young lad who once again told us we were crazy.  He said he uses 2 horses to get over to Urubumba and then proceeded to set our tent up for us.  We awoke to an amazing view over looking Cucanni.   This could have been paradise to Bess and I.  
As we descended down to the town, we dreamed of setting up our house here.  Bess would weave the alpaca wool that Else and I would raise.  And during the down time, we could climb, white water raft and mountain bike some of the best terrain in the world.  On our way down, we ran into a couple of girls looking after a newborn llama.

From the town, we had an easy 8 km hike down to Lares, where there were thermal baths awaiting two weary bodies.

Bess and I are back in Cusco feeling very accomplished of our trip and navigating multiple forms of public transportation.  We are preparing to leave for the Amazon on Friday. 

Again, please take a look at our other photos of the trip here.
Josh

No Hablo Espanol Bien

A half-hour taxi ride from Cusco brought us to the town of Chinchero. We arrived mid-afternoon to wonderfully kind Spanish and Q'uechua speaking family. Although a lot of pointing and acting, the interaction was engaging and humbling. We were greeted with a tiny, rehearsed "Welcome to Chinchero" from Mili, the youngest of three girls. The evening of our arrival, the town (and the two gringos - us - staying in town) participated in a procession for Good Friday - literally the entire town walked the streets for three hours, stopping every so often to listen to the priest (hooked to a microphone and speaker system!) and his Easter message. The final leg of the procession was on a highway, which was blocked off, forcing traffic (consisting mostly of tour buses returning from Machu Picchu) to pull over and wait for the masses of people to pass. I am quite amazed at the Catholic presence here in the Cusco region. Often, churches have been built directly upon the Incan ruins, using them as foundation. As we ride in the buses, passengers cross their bodies as we go down hills.

 The Paswall family shared their home and their culture (and their food!) with us. The family raises a few animals, grows a few crops, and sells their handicrafts at the local market. Senora was patient and forgiving as she taught me to weave - though I managed to learn the techniques, I still need a bit of practice!

During our stay in Chinchero, we had plenty of time to wander around the beautiful Incan ruins. I am continuously amazed at their structures! The Chinchero ruins are large and built a bit like terraces, following a small river. The valley is surrounded by green hills and, in the distance, snow-capped peaks.

Photos, as always, here.

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Ruins

After the excitment of a South American soccer game, we ended up going to bed early, exhausted, but waking up quite rejuvinated. Throughout the day today, as the game replayed on TV, a mention of our attendance at the evenings festivities brought instant conversation and friendship.

In attempt to discover the true extent of our lack of aclimitization, we trekked thirty minutes out of town (thirty minutes straight up hill, actually) to a nearby Incan sight called Sacasumayan. The sight is thought to be a place of worship to the sun and is marked by large walls made of limestone. We enjoyed the time in the sun and amazing views of Cusco below.

Another short walk (this time a bit more flat) lead us to another Inca sight, called Q'enqo. On our way, we walked with a tour guide on her way to work at the ruins. She was quite friendly and spoke very good English - she was also quite patient with out attempts at Spanish! She gave us a tour through Q'enqo and her knowledge of the Incan culture and use of the sacred spot was impressive! The Incans were quite amazing in their use of the sun to create symbols and to recieve messages. They seemed, I suppose like most American native cultures, to have a great understanding of the earth.

We wrapped the evening up with a two-for-one happy hour drinks at Norton's Rat Pub, over-looking the Plaza de Arms and the people below. We had wonderful conversation with several Botany PhD students from Perth, Australia as the local Catholics waited in long lines for the evening mass.

And now, off to pack our bags for our time out of the city. We head out tomorrow afternoon to the small village of Chinchero, where we have arranged to stay with a family. From there, we walk North, and continue walking for four days, to the town of Lares.

More from the trek upon our return.

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More photos

Catching Breath

J and I arrived in Cusco early yesterday morning and recognized at once how aptly named our travel blog is. The air, here at 3400m, is certainly lacking the oxygen we are used to at sea level. The combination of the altitude with more sunshine that we have been exposed to in months leaves us huffing our way up the cobblestone streets, laced in sweat.

We are certainly enjoying ourselves and we are actually quite pleased with the sunshine and blue skies. I had been prepared for grey, rainy days. Upon arrival yesterday, we took the morning and early afternoon to set our barings and meander the streets. The streets are hilly and narrow and filled with people and honking taxis. Our hostel is in the San Blas district of the town, which is filled with tourists and vendors selling beautiful alpaca goods. We are able to walk to the Plaza de Arms, in the center of Cusco. The streets, as well as walls inside our hostel, are bits and pieces of remaining incan walls.

While attempting to slowly explore the city (picture us sweating, camera in hand), we happened upon the news of a football (soccer, that is) game happening last night. The Cusco Cenimos versus the Argentinian Nuevo Boca. Apparently, the game to see . J, who, of course, makes friends with everyone he meets, mentioned we were looking for good bar in which to watch the game and was invited to the stadium with new friend, Miguel, and his family.

Miguel, and his wife and son, guided us toward the stadium amidst a sea of red, and helped us to scalp some tickets. We entered the nearly full stands two hours before kickoff and waited, with 45,000 other fans for the game to begin. Of course, the game was all it was expected to be. Aggressive and quite even, scoreless through the first half and three Cusco goals in the second. Quite an experience.

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More photos

Up and Away

J and I leave tomorrow morning. Our flight leaves Seattle at 10a and, after swapping planes in Dallas, Miami, and Lima, we will arrive in Cusco at 7:30a the following morning.

Our packs are packed (nearly) and our guidebooks dog-eared. Flashcards for the flight and a lineup of the best dog-sitters ever.
Up, up, and away.

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Again with the Weather